Any surfers in here?

[sparechange]

So lately I've been thinking about surfing, I've been to Tofino a couple of times and want to go again this summer!

But holy crap do these videos terrify me & give me second thoughts


View attachment whoah.mp4

 

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[Benedict]

I am surfing my third year now (at least I hope to do it this year...).

Unfortunately I don't live near the sea so I go surfing for weeks during the year.

For me, that's the perfect sport. I love it so much. I have always been a water person.

About the video: Of course, there are always risks and surfers getting attacked by sharks etc. - but I think that is a pretty low risk compared to other extreme sports. And also: Surfing has become pretty popular, so if you go to a spot, you are probably not alone.... so chances are high, someone else gets to be the sharkfood instead of you

Go ahead an try it! It's absolutely worth it.

 

[Fox]

Grew up surfing in Ireland - love it.

This the main beach I surfed every summer...



Here is the beach/reef that was close to my Uni...



Surfing is quite safe and the video you linked to is never going to happen.

This would be like watching a video of a Tiger catching some prey before you go to hang out at your local zoo - those sort of attacks very rarely happen close to humans. The only concern would be if you lived in a very shark infested area like South Africa (and even then there are ways to reduce risk).

Start with some basic longboard lessons and then get a longboard of your own. Longer boards are easier to move around in the water, require less work, and mean a lot more time catching/riding waves.

I would say wait at least half a year to start getting a smaller board - the worst way a beginner can start is getting a board that is too small and then they never catch any waves.

Look for a starter friendly beach too - different places have different times of waves and you will want a nice medium-sized slow wave. These are actually a ton of fun on a longboard and you can have a great 1-3 hour session catching dozens of great waves.

Ask any more questions if you got them. Surfing is one of the best sports for both fun/excitement but also relaxing/peacefulness.

 

[MTF]

Started surfing on November 2018 on a trip to Hawaii and Australia, then two weeks after returning I traveled from Europe back to Australia to spend three weeks learning how to surf there. Eventually I started surfing back home in cold water, too (which makes it pretty clear how addictive surfing is given how much I hate cold weather and that I need to drive for two hours to the closest spot). Currently temporarily living in Barbados, surfing every day as long as there are waves (and if there are none, open water swimming) and loving life.

Surfing now dictates where I travel and is an important factor in my plans regarding where I'll live in the future.

Be careful. If you fall in love with surfing, as cliche as it sounds, it will change your life. A stereotypical surfer guy working in a surf shop told me the same thing through his thick Australian accent. A year and a half later, with each session, the addiction only gets stronger.

As for dangers, I'd be more worried about drowning and/or getting hit by a board or your body hitting against the rocks/reef, etc. than sharks. Which is why the most important thing is to be able to properly assess the conditions and don't go out when in doubt (if you surf at a consistent beginner's break it's rare for the conditions to get dangerous).

 

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[aeden]

So lately I've been thinking about surfing, I've been to Tofino a couple of times and want to go again this summer!

I've surfed since I was 13 (I'm 43 now). I lived on Oahu for several years, part of which was in a house right on the water in front of 3 breaks. It was awesome - I was in the best shape of my life at that time. Surfing is one of the drivers for continuing to grow my business as I ultimately am going to buy a nice place on the beach, probably in the Southwest of France near Biarritz.

I ended up surfing Tofino for a week in October 2018 and it was incredible. My buddy who came up with me, and who regularly surfs there, couldn't believe how good the weather was - there were days where it was 28C!

If you can, keep on surfing. It's good for you mind and body and you can keep doing it your entire life.

 

[sparechange]

I am surfing my third year now (at least I hope to do it this year...).

Unfortunately I don't live near the sea so I go surfing for weeks during the year.

For me, that's the perfect sport. I love it so much. I have always been a water person.

About the video: Of course, there are always risks and surfers getting attacked by sharks etc. - but I think that is a pretty low risk compared to other extreme sports. And also: Surfing has become pretty popular, so if you go to a spot, you are probably not alone.... so chances are high, someone else gets to be the sharkfood instead of you

Go ahead an try it! It's absolutely worth it.

LOL that's one way of looking at it!

 

[sparechange]

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J56BYWQcX2w


hmmmmm, bucket list item? lol, death defying stuff, if this guy wipes out he's basically drowning to death right?

 

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[MTF]

Not really. These guys are extremely well prepared and have extremely well prepared support teams. All or almost all big wave surfers wear inflatable vests that also increase their odds of survival.

It is a crazy sport, but IMO it's a separate sport from surfing. An average surfer usually surfs on waves that are knee to chest high, maybe head high at most. It's like comparing a weekend rock climber climbing some easy sport routes on a bolted cliff with an alpinist climbing in the Himalayas in the winter. Similar sport but actually pretty different (particularly risk-wise).

 

[MattR82]

Haha that's a killer whale lol. Don't think you need to worry bout them!

I grew up in Ballina, about 30 mins from Byron Bay. Went to the beach every day but struggled with surfing. Beaches there were a bit too intense to learn on compared to some chill spots in Byron.

I've been horrified of the recent attacks at my local beach. Hotspot of the world since about 2013. My brother in law pulled the first fatality out of the water, well known Japanese guy. Couldn't pay me enough to go in now, but they all still do and I think there's been nothing for a few years now.

I always found it so intimidating but it was because I was trying to learn on a F*cking hard core beach and almost drowning every time lol. Finally learnt on some easy breaks over in Bali. So much fun (and fricking exhausting).

 

[MTF]

I always found it so intimidating but it was because I was trying to learn on a F*cking hard core beach and almost drowning every time lol. Finally learnt on some easy breaks over in Bali. So much fun (and fricking exhausting).

The first time I went surfing alone (without a surf coach) was in Australia, on a break with dumping waves (yeah, such a perfect choice for a newbie, but I didn't know any better at the time). After almost drowning, I started questioning if I wanted to keep surfing haha.

Learning on a chill beginner spot with a friendly vibe is soooo important to actually enjoy surfing and learn properly. Conversely, shitty conditions or shitty people in the line-up ruin the experience.

 

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[Longinus]

I always wanted to learn surfing (never did), but will probably start kitesurfing this Summer. For some reason it's crazy popular here in Poland and it should be a lot of fun.

 

[aeden]

if this guy wipes out he's basically drowning to death right?

Many big-wave surfers are now wearing vests like these: Highline Pro Airlift Vest - Big Wave Surfing Safety jacket - used properly they can help keep you from drowning. There is still always a risk of injury though, regardless of the wave size. I once took a board to the head on a small, windy day and bled like crazy. Good times!

 

[StrikingViper69]

I've done it several times over the years and always wanted to take it a bit more seriously. Always love it when I go out... I suspect I'll love it all the more if I try it in warm waters, rather than off the British coast!

 

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