The Grand Canyon

[SteveO]

This post is in response to Bio's post about living life to its fullest.

I did a Grand Canyon trip a couple of years ago that was a blast. From the south rim to the north rim and back.... in a day...

I have actually done this twice but I had some pictures and vid clips of this one. It was a total bitch. 48 miles in a day. Much of it running.

Thought I might talk about it here for the fun.

It is a very dangerous trip. There is no medical care beyond first aid that does not involve a rescue team or helicopter. You can virtually be stranded for long periods of time if something bad happens.

Here is the list of precautions: Grand Canyon National Park Hiking Safety Guide

You will see from pictures that we traveled very light. The nightime temps were in the 20's or lower but our need to move fast prevented heavy clothing.

We started around 4:30 am. Within half a mile from the start we ran into very fast moving water on the trail. It was still dark but this water crossed the switchback trail many times and followed the path for quite a distance. Our shoes and socks were immediately soaked with water and silt. All we could figure was that there was a broken pipe somewhere because it was not a streambed.

Fortunately, we had brought a change of socks since we knew there would be locations that would get our feet wet. Unfortunately, our shoes and socks were very dirty now. We knew that we would need to let the socks dry for a later changing.

After that, the remainder of the decent was uneventful. We ran most of the 5000 ft dropoff down to the Colorado River below. It seemed pretty easy at this point.

Now for the fun. The climb up the north rim was about 6000 feet. The path followed a canyon along a river for a number of miles. It meanders through a canyon for a ways rolling up and down on the face. There were some wet spots that required balance while hopping on rocks to cross the river.

We did not carry a lot of volume of water because there are stops along the way. This proved to be a problem for us. We were casually hiking up the rim when we realized that the water was shut off at one of the stops. We were still probably about 4000 feet from the top at this time and assumed that we could get water at the top. I offered some of my water to the others since I felt that I was always capable of going without water than most people.

As we neared the top, we ran into a group that was sitting in a large rock outcropping. They were amazed that we came from the other side and planned on going back that day.

Well, after a nasty climb up we finally made the top. No water was available. The north rim was still shut down for the season and the lodge was not open. Someone that we ran into told us that the water would be turned back on in a few days and that it is turned off during part of the season. We had assumed that the water would be on while the trail was open for hiking. Wrong!!!

To be continued...

Here are a couple of photos of us on the way up the north side and at the top.

 

Dislike ads? Remove them and support the forum: Subscribe to Fastlane Insiders.

[SteveO]

Part II

Other than the soaked feet at the start and shortage of water going up the north canyon wall, most of the first half was uneventfull. The climb was strenuous but we were all prepared and in shape for this.

The other two partners that I was with had brought walking sticks in the form of ski poles. I had decided that they were not necessary. I was wrong.

We started down the north rim back into the canyon. All of us were very thirsty as we had completely run out of water on the way up. Since I had handed some of my water over to the other hikers, I had traveled about nine miles and about 4000 feet of elevation climb on about 8 ounces of water. That is just to get to the top. We still needed to go another nine miles or so to get back to the last known water source.

As we decended down the steep grade we passed the same group that we had visited with on the way up. They cheered and clapped as we ran by. For some silly reason, it felt good.

All of a sudden I started cramping in my quads. Those walking sticks began looking useful. After a few "I told you so's", we continued down the cliff wall. The terrain at this point was sheer cliff with a trail carved out. A rough trail. Not very wide. My friends were commenting that we should not run for a little ways due to the danger of a potential trip and fall. I did not argue.

Eventually we navigated past the cliffs and the danger diminished. It was still plenty of slope but the sheer cliff was gone. We started running again. All of us were so exceptionally thirsty at this point. Our conversation change from pleasant to sometimes even crude. Forgive me for my language in this link but I did not realize that the camera had this much audio sensitivity.

http://homes-ariz.com/rrr/idiot-mofos.AVI

I had worked past the cramps by this point and we were back on track.

We knew the water was ahead. I had never been so thirsty. The last mile toward the spigot seemed like an eternity. But, we finally made it. The area was shaded with trees and the water was cold. Ahhhh...... I felt like I drank a gallon. :smx6:

We were really tired by this point and actually rested for a few minutes. Only 15 miles left to go!

The next few miles were along a canyon with a river alongside. There were some ups and downs but for the most part it was fairly level. The scenery was beautiful but the trail was otherwise long and boring. For miles we thought that we were almost at the Colorado River. Every corner we turned just led to another bend in the canyon.

Now, I have told this story to many people as a joke. But it did not feel like a joke at the time.

We came around one of these famous bends and looked ahead. About a quarter mile down the trail was a couple of mountain goats. "Cool" we said. That isn't something that you see every day.

Then they looked up at us... and started running... towards us... I just kept walking down the trail expecting them to veer off. They didn't. It was mere seconds before I realized that they were not going to change course. There was a cliff wall on one side of us and a drop down an embankment into the river on the other side. For a split second I thought that I might go down the embankment . There was a jog in the trail and at this point the beasts ran down the steep bank and up the other side without slowing. For that split second I thought I might be at a disadvantage if I was strung out on the side of this cliff.

So I stood my ground. And they kept coming. The horns were pointed at me. One had veered off but the other was bearing down directly in my path. I yelled at the top of my lungs and charged back at it. There was skidding involved as it reversed course almost within my reach. Whew... It went the other way... for a few seconds... turned and came charging back. I can't recall exactly what I was thinking but it was along the lines of "Great, it is not scared of me". I repeated my scream and charge. This time it turned and skidadled up the cliff.

Wow... The one thing that stuck in my memory was how big the a$$ was on this thing when it skidded in front of me. Looked pretty powerful!!!

I looked around and saw Mike buried in a crevice on the cliff. He was asking frantically "Are they gone? Where'd they go?" My friend John was behind me. He immediately said "I was right there with you, Steve!". Not!!!

It was a funny to watch the three of us running down the trail looking over our shoulders. Scared of goats?!? C'mon...

We finally reached the Colorado. Dead tired and looking at the south rim in front of us.

Here is Johns comment: http://homes-ariz.com/rrr/this-sucks.AVI

To be continued...

 

[SteveO]

The final chapter.

Standing down at the very bottom of the canyon looking up is awesome. Having traveled for almost 40 miles at a brisk pace with barely a rest.... It still looks awesome. It also looks daunting.

The ascent up the south rim is tough by itself. We now faced it when we were already completely fatigued.

I have been here before. Memories of my last trip were now conveniently coming back into my head. The remainder of this trip is nothing more than a death march. The beauty of the canyon no longer applies. We have seen it all and now wish to be finished.

Somehow we muster the energy to run. The sun is beginning to fade behind the walls and the heat is turning to cool. Our desire at this point is to reach Indian Gardens. It is only about 4.5 miles to the top from this point. All switchbacks though. But from this point you start to see life again. At least life that feels like the top might be in range.

By the time we arrived we were looking pretty lifeless.

http://homes-ariz.com/rrr/dead.AVI

The light quickly changed to darkness. Far off in the distance a single light could be seen. It looked so far away. We could not even think about running. Hell, each step walking was tough.

The last few miles has marker signs. Each mile seemed longer. The lone light above us did not seem to get closer. We passed a hiker that said he could not go on. Still 2.5 miles to go. Ughhh. We tried to help this person and offered our shoulders. He refused.

One thing about the canyon is that you can go down easily but you need to go up to get out. You can't just decide to quit unless you are ready to majorly disrupt others. You need to keep going. It is hard but you put yourself in there.

It was flat out cold now. I was still sweating and felt warm and cold at the same time. I put my lightweight jacket on anyway as the risk of hypothermia is very real at this stage.

Every race that I have ever run, marathons, 10k's, seeing the last mile felt good. I wish that was the case here. This last mile felt like torture. I couldn't imagine what the other two were feeling. I was in better running condition. None of us said anything for conversation. An occasional phrase might be grunted out.

Mike had family waiting for him at the top. There was a restaurant a couple hundred yard away. It felt horrible trying to reach it. I called my wife. "Never again!!!", "I will never do this stupid hike again".

Of course after a good night sleep, we were talking about the next trip. Brilliant!

 

[biophase]

I just got back from my 3 day Grand Canyon trip. We parked at the south rim by Bright Angel lodge and took a shuttle to the north rim. We stayed in the lodge for the night and ate at the restaurant which was pretty good. I snapped the first photo of the amazing view from the restaurant window.

We hiked down the north rim (3rd photo) to Cottonwood and camped there the 1st night. We took a side venture to Ribbon falls which is really pretty.

The second day we hiked to Phantom Ranch which really is anything. I guess I expected something better. We hiked to the Colorado river (5th photo) and took a 2 hour nap at the little beach. (2nd photo) Then we hiked to Indian Garden. The switchbacks to Indian Garden was the toughest part of the trip. It was a really long 3 miles.

The third day we hiked Indian Garden to the south rim which wasn't that bad at all, mainly because it was drizzling and cloudy.

The good news is that the weather was great. It was 60 at the top of the south rim and 95 at Cottonwood when we arrived at noon. The next day the clouds came in and it was probably 70 degrees and overcast when we got to Phantom at 10am. At the Colorado river we were able to nap for 2 hours without feeling hot or cold.

Rim to rim is a tough venture. I can't imagine doing rim to rim to rim. We each had 30lb backpacks during the entire way. Downhill and uphill were both killers. Flat ground was the only easy ground to hike on.

The Grand Canyon did not look like how any of us expected it to look. We picture a wide open flat area at the bottom with a river in the middle. Instead it was a narrow canyon which never opened up. I guess it makes sense when you think about it.

 

Dislike ads? Remove them and support the forum: Subscribe to Fastlane Insiders.

[AroundTheWorld]

Just trying to get an overall picture of your day. What, approx do you think your high temps where?

Your story is similar to giving birth..... sucks while you are doing it, but later you decide maybe you want to do it again! lol.

Thanks for sharing your story! Very cool.

 

[gofalls]

We completed it last Saturday from North to South (the easier way). Took us 11 hours with 15 lb bags and we were struggling with the last 3 miles. I ate 7 bars, 4 gel packs, and 400 oz of water. We got lucky to have been rained on when the forecast predicted 105 degree temps. It made for a sloppy hike but the cooler temps was well worth it. I couldn’t imagine turning around and doing it again, that would have been suicide for us. I have rested 4 days now and my calves are still on fire. We must have seen hundreds of people and no one looked like they were attempting r2r2r in the same day, that’s an incredible feat especially without water.

We talked to a lady from a rafting group at the bottom about her trip. She was on day 3 of 6 and was very excited about it. She has gone every year with her dad for 15 years and uses the same company every time (Tour West, I think). They charge 2k a head and they must have had about 30 clients. That’s 60k in a week. What a fun business.

 

[gofalls]

We ended up getting dropped off and had another party pick us up on the other rim, no car swapping was needed. We camped on the North and started at 6am and finished around 4pm. At 5am it was 28 degrees in my tent and at 11am it was 92 degrees at Phantom Ranch.

The rain got so bad that almost every step up the South Rim switchbacks was a puddle with 2 inches of coffee mud and mule poo.

Cliff Bar has some new flavors. They are pretty good and I can eat them all day. Apricot and Blueberry I eat them like candy.

Photo is looking up the South rim. You can see the top way way up there. I think it was about 6 miles to go at this point.

 

[Russ H]

Great stuff, guys.

Thanks for sharing.

I guess the most amazing thing for me about the Grand Canyon was-- no picture I've ever seen comes close to conveying the sheer scale and sense of awe you get when there (but I do appreciate the pics-- don't get me wrong!).

I just remember looking at it, and thinking I'd have to really remember what I was experiencing-- 'cause there was no recording medium that could do it justice.

We took a helicopter ride (before 9/11). For some reason, after 9/11, operators were not allowed to do as many things (go below the rim, close to the walls, etc). Not exactly sure why.

But it was a gas--- and I'm glad I did it.

As for a rim to rim hike?

I'd have to be in much better shape.

Ironically, 10 years ago, when I was talking about knee replacements w/my doc, and he asked what was the worst thing I could do to my knees (so he'd have an idea of what I put my knees through), a Grand Canyon rim to rim hike was what I mentioned.

He didn't think it was such a hot idea, but he didn't rule it out, either (he's a sports med guy-- he 'gets it').

-Russ H.

 

[SteveO]

btw... My favorite hike was Mount Whitney. Not quite the same challenge, but still not easy to hike up to 14,500 feet in elevation. I have a story on this one that had some fun events.

When you stand at the bottom and look up, there is no way to imagine the trip ahead. Right out of a story book!

Perhaps this would be something that all us crazies could do for fun. Seems like most of my trips have some form of drama attached.

 

Dislike ads? Remove them and support the forum: Subscribe to Fastlane Insiders.

[AroundTheWorld]

I'm sure you could make it if you trained for a few months....

Agree! I've recently decided that I need to get fit again. I used to be very athletic, but in the last 10 years I've let myself go... and it has really caught up with me in just the last couple of years.

So, I decided to do something about it. Got a few things in the works:

1) Training for a 1/2 marathon in late summer. Maybe after that, I'll keep training for a full marathon.

2) Biking the Trail of the Coeur d"Alenes in early fall. This is a 72+ bike trail that goes all the way across the Idaho panhandle. Doing it w/ the whole family, so we will take a couple of days and camp along the way.

3) Hiking a portion of the Continental Divide trail. We will start in the US (Glacier Park) and hike into the back country. Come out the other side in Canada! How is that for a border crossing? This will also be a family trip, so we will take about 5 days to get it done.

I'm so excited about all of these things.... it is so fun to have these "unusual" vacations. WAY better than sitting walking through the next tourist trap! It is so cool to have these experiences w/ the kids too. What great memories for them This is what living is all about.

 

[AroundTheWorld]

Cool story. I can't wait to hear the conclusion.... and, I'm inspired!

Going to spend some time writing up / preserving some of our family adventures....

and.... planning new ones!

Thanks for sharing.

 

[marktech101]

Wow, that sounds amazing! I went this past summer, but my experiences were nothing compared to yours.

Do you mind if I post your story on my website?

 

[Yankees338]

Wow, that's awesome. I'm not a runner or a hiker, but that sounds really cool. The Grand Canyon is beautiful, and it's one heck of a place.

 

Dislike ads? Remove them and support the forum: Subscribe to Fastlane Insiders.

[SteveO]

One more on the way up.

 

[SteveO]

Wow, that sounds amazing! I went this past summer, but my experiences were nothing compared to yours.

Do you mind if I post your story on my website?

That would be fine.

 

[Charmed Angel]

Thanks for sharing your adventure!
Can't wait to read the rest!

 

Dislike ads? Remove them and support the forum: Subscribe to Fastlane Insiders.

[AroundTheWorld]

hehehe.

After watching these videos, I'm more convinced then ever that when I do the Grand Canyon up close and personal, it will be raft.... and not by my running legs.

 

[marktech101]

This is truly amazing for my site. I'd like to give you credit for this; is just SteveO ok? Or is there something you'd rather be known as?

 

Dislike ads? Remove them and support the forum: Subscribe to Fastlane Insiders.

[SteveO]

Another pic. Not my socks...

 

[SteveO]

Still 4.5 to go. No crying was allowed.

 

Dislike ads? Remove them and support the forum: Subscribe to Fastlane Insiders.

[SteveO]

At the restaurant.

 

[AroundTheWorld]

Thanks for your Story, Steve.

When you say... downright cold, how cold, approx? Just trying to get a feel.

All said and So, 48 miles. How long did this take you?

 

[SteveO]

It took us 16 hours. I would like to do it again and aim for 14 hours.

I realize that cold is relative. It was probably in the 30's and might have dipped into the 20's. But keep in mind that we were wearing shorts and very light jackets.

 

Dislike ads? Remove them and support the forum: Subscribe to Fastlane Insiders.

[SteveO]

The bottom of the canyon is a lot warmer than the top. There is a large period of time climbing the north side where the sun stays on you for long periods. I would guess that it got into the high 80's for some of the time.

 

[AroundTheWorld]

The bottom of the canyon is a lot warmer than the top. There is a large period of time climbing the north side where the sun stays on you for long periods. I would guess that it got into the high 80's for some of the time.

Interesting. That is a pretty big temperature range for you to deal with in one day!

 

Dislike ads? Remove them and support the forum: Subscribe to Fastlane Insiders.

[SteveO]

Here is a link to the average tempetatures. Phantom Ranch is at the bottom of the canyon where it tends to be much warmer. Both rims are colder due to the elevation. Our hike was in the middle of May. We start and end the day in the cold at the top of the rim but the majority of the hike is in much higher temps.

Average Temperatures and Precipitation at Grand Canyon!

This was my second time across and back in a day. I had hypothermia myself the first time. It felt like every muscle in my body was cramping up. We went straight back to the hotel and I jumped in a tub of hot water.

When you are fatigued and it is cold, you may not feel cold if you are exerting a lot of energy. That does not stop the core temperature from going down.

 

[AroundTheWorld]

I remember seeing a book about a family that lived in the bottom of the canyon... parhaps that is Phantom Ranch? I remember thinking how cool it would be to do that for a year.

Last year, up in the Broughten Islands, BC. we went and spent a few days with a man that lives in an old logging camp. There are no roads in and out. He is only gets 30 days off a year. He lives there alone in a little bay.

His only visitors are the pilot of the hydroplane that comes in about once a month to drop his supplies and the occasional visitor from nearby villages that come in by boat.

Interesting life!

 

[SteveO]

Phantom Ranch is like a guest ranch at the bottom of the canyon. The spot in my story that had shade and water is someone's residence. Not sure what the story is there but they allow hikers on their lawn. It is close to the bottom of the Bright Angel Canyon and right at the point where the real climb begins on the north rim.

 

Dislike ads? Remove them and support the forum: Subscribe to Fastlane Insiders.

[SteveO]

I remember seeing a book about a family that lived in the bottom of the canyon... parhaps that is Phantom Ranch? I remember thinking how cool it would be to do that for a year.

Last year, up in the Broughten Islands, BC. we went and spent a few days with a man that lives in an old logging camp. There are no roads in and out. He is only gets 30 days off a year. He lives there alone in a little bay.

His only visitors are the pilot of the hydroplane that comes in about once a month to drop his supplies and the occasional visitor from nearby villages that come in by boat.

Interesting life!

There is no way that I could live in that kind of seclution.

 

[SteveO]

Bump for Russ!!!