Kak
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I know I'm a chick...But I would be happy to help you with anything / questions you may have about menswear. It's my hobby business. Well, it's actually TWO of my hobby businesses. I've been working and playing in menswear for a dozen years, and have forgotten more than anyone should ever know about it!!
SUITS:
Actually, you can get a "bespoke" suit for a reasonable price if you are willing to travel to Vietnam or Hong Kong. There are a few reputable tailors who come here to take measurements, then go back to Asia to make them. They do pretty good work for $500-700. Problem is you are not going to get the benefit of multiple fittings like you would by using a state-side (or Savile Row) tailor, which will cost you $2-5k if they are worth their salt. So if you have a "normal" body type, then you can either go the MTM (Made-to-Measure) route (which is a better description of the first option I mentioned, as opposed to "bespoke"). Or, as someone else mentioned, you can just get a RTW suit from a reputable maker which uses canvas construction, and have it altered to fit you. These would be: Canali, Corneliani, Hickey Freeman, Southwick, Samuelsohn, etc. Some Brooks Bros are constructed on canvas. And I think Jos A Bank even offers an executive line. I could give you a list of other amazingly well made OTR suits, but they cost as much as a lot of custom pieces! (Oxxford, Brioni, Kiton, Zegna, Pal Zileri, etc.)
But truthfully, if you are a "normal" size, check out eBay. I regularly sell (used) $3-4k suits for $3-400. If they're NWT, you can get them for .20-.25 on the retail dollar.
I would avoid any diffusion brand such as Mani (diffusion brand of Armani), Ralph or Lauren or Chaps (all diffusion brands of Ralph Lauren), most Boss and most Burberry. If you aren't sure, ask the salesman if they are canvassed. If they don't know, RUN the other way. If you can find blue or purple label Ralph Lauren, then it is safe!
Re: your question about style features: Notched lapels on a single breasted suit scream "I know style" because they're not common, but they are def a favorite of dandies. Some like watch pockets and ticket pockets. Many like "surgeon's cuffs" (functioning sleeve buttons) on their suit coats. Just be sure you get it tailored right the first time, because they're nearly impossible to alter once they're done!
SHIRTS:
IMO, the best (for the buck) "custom" shirt you can buy is from Jantzen Tailors in Hong Kong. Last shirt I ordered from them was $40 I think. And it is custom down to the cuff, collar, placket, gusset and button type!! Amazing selection, and the construction quality is impeccable single-needle tailoring. The only shirts in the world that SHOULD cost significantly more are the hand finished Borrelli, Sulka, Kiton and one other line from Florence that is slipping my mind right now. Not only are they hand finished, they are also made with the FINEST shirting fabrics in the world. (retail ~ $600ish)
TIES:
I know I'm partial, since this is my business. But I would only get ties made in England and Italy. I might make an exception for France so that I can include Charvet. But while the Chinese are doing a great job of constructing the ties they make, their finishing (the gum on the silk) is still nowhere near the quality of the silks woven in England and Como, Italy. I can spot a Chinese tie 90% of the time without even touching it.
If you have a substantial tie (either because it is a folded tie or because it is a densely woven silk), then you don't have to use a Windsor knot. In fact, a Windsor would look silly with some collar types. Great for a spread or cut-away. But you would want to use a half-Windsor or 4-in-hand knot for narrower / smaller collars like point, tab or some button-downs.
Just my 2 lira... which aren't worth much any more! ;-)
Speed jill.
I am going to order 5-6 of those shirts.
Monogramed cuffs... that is very "because I can".
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